Showing posts with label alarm. Show all posts
Showing posts with label alarm. Show all posts

Friday, November 7, 2014

Heat Detector Alarm using UM3561

A very simple heat detector alarm electronic project can be designed using the UM3561 sound generator circuit and some other common electronic parts . This heat detector electronic circuit project uses a complementary pair comprising npn and pnp transistor to detect heat Collector of T1 transistor is connected to the base of the T2 transistor , while the collector of T2 transistor is connected to RL1 relay T3 and T4 transistors connected in darlington configuration are used to amplify the audio signal from the UM3561 ic.

When the temperature close to the T1 transistor is hot , the resistance to the emitter –collector goes low and it starts conducting . In same time T2 transistor conducts , because its base is connected to the collector of T1 transistor and the RL1 relay energized and switches on the siren which produce a fire engine alarm sound. This electronic circuit project must be powered from a 6 volts DC power supply , but the UM3561 IC is powered using a 3 volt zener diode , because the alarm sound require a 3 volts dc power supply. The relay used in this project must be a 6 volt / 100 ohms relay and the speaker must have a 8 ohms load and 1 watt power.
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Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Expandable Multi Zone Modular Burglar Alarm

The Basic Alarm Circuit has an automatic Exit/Entry Zone - an Instant Alarm Zone that will accept both normally-closed and normally-open triggering devices - and an "Always On" 24-hour Personal Attack/Tamper Zone. By using the Expansion Modules - you can add as many extra alarm zones as you require.

Schematic Diagram

Expandable

The Alarm is armed and disarmed by SW1. Before you move the switch to the "set" position - all the green LEDs should be lighting. You then have up to about a minute to leave the building. As you do so - the Buzzer will sound. It should stop sounding when you close the door behind you. This indicates that the Exit/Entry loop has been successfully restored within the time allowed. 


When you re-enter the building - you have up to about a minute to move SW1 to the "off" position. If SW1 is not switched off in time - the relay will energize - and the main bell will ring. It will continue ringing for up to about 40 minutes. But it can be turned off at any time by SW1. 

The "Instant" zone has no Entry Delay. The moment one of its normally-open switches is closed - the main bell will ring. Similarly - the moment one of its normally-closed switches is opened - the main bell will ring. If you dont want to use normally-open switches - leave out R8, C8 and Q2 - and fit a link between Led 3 and C7.
The 24 Hour Personal Attack and Tamper protection is provided by the SCR/Thyristor. If one of the switches in the normally-closed loop is opened - current through R11 will trigger the SCR - and the main bell will ring. In this case the bell has no time limit. To reset the PA/Tamper zone - first restore the normally-closed loop - then press SW2 momentarily. This will interrupt the current and reset the SCR.

Two-Zone Expansion Module


Expandable

The basic circuit will be satisfactory in many situations. However, if you have a large building to protect - its much easier to find a fault - when the system is divided into zones - and the control panel can "remember" which zone has caused the activation. 

The expansion modules are designed to do this. Although they will work with the existing instant zone - they are intended to replace it. When a zone is triggered - its red LED will light and remain lit - to indicate that the zone has been activated. 

The idea is that - once youve noted the zone in question - you then press the reset button and turn off the LED. The reset button simply turns off the LED. It doesnt reset the zone. The zone resets automatically when the trigger circuit is restored. If youre using more than one expansion module - they can all share a single reset button.
Expandable

Inertia-Sensor Module

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Saturday, October 4, 2014

Phone Alarm Dialer using MT8880 and PIC 16F84A

Phone Alarm Dialer using MT8880 and PIC 16F84A

Just angle this Anxiety Buzz Dialer up to article you would like to monitor, for example, a aerial baptize alarm, low temperature alarm, aback window, barn door, etc. Back the arrangement is activated it will anxiety a cardinal of programmed numbers to let you apperceive the anxiety has been activated. This would be abundant to get alerts of anxiety altitude from your home back you are at work.

The ambit uses a MT8880 DTMF dialer dent and a PIC 16F84A microcontroller. After putting calm this little device, you charge access programming-mode to apprentice some buzz numbers which this bore will anxiety afterwards audition an ascribe on it’s sensor pin.

After programming aloof accumulation ability to the device. Afterwards acute the button “Pokreni dojavu alarma” it will alpha to punch (tone or pulse, depending on the jumper setup). Back the buzz anxiety is auspiciously established, the alleged affair should columnist batter key “#” to stop the accessory from calling addition cardinal or again.

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Thursday, October 2, 2014

Car Anti Theft Burglar Alarm Security Circuit

A car thief will avoid a car that causes him trouble and attracts attention. A good anti theft alarm in your car will soon convince a would be thief that there are easier pickings elsewhere.

The present circuit (figure 63), when set, reacts to the opening of a door (via the door switch for the interior courtesy lights). Such switches can also guard the engine compartment and boot. Fitting switches to the rear doors, boot lid, and bonnet makes sense, because thieves aren’t so sporting as to always try to break in via the driver’s or front passenger’s door. The alarm is set by a well hidden switch, S. Once it is set, you have about one minute to leave the car and lock the doors. A lamp La, goes out just before the minute has lapsed. After that, whenever one of the doors is opened  even for a short time  the alarm goes off unless switch S has been disabled (hopefully by the owner) within 6 seconds from the door opening. The normal car horn is used as alarm and you should therefore check that this is not in easy reach of the thief. lf the horn, for instance, is fitted under the wings of the car, it is fairly easy to cut through the connecting wires. As may be seen from figure 63, the circuit consists of a control stage, the alarm section, and a switching stage which operates the horn via a relay.

Construction hints  When the hidden switch S has been closed, the anti—theft alarm is powered, and the following actions take place: a) gates  form a NAND gate latch (also called R-S flip—flop) which acts as a (set) (reset)g1ange;Jver switch that can be set to the required state by logic levels via inputs S and R . The convention with these circuits is that they are sg when the O output is high, or reset (= cleared) when the O output is low; the O output is complementary to the O output. The set input (pin 13) is logic high via R2 and R3, while the R input is low. To begin with, capacitor C6 is not charged. The low level at the O output (pg 11) inhibits the clock of IC3 via NAND gates N5 and N6, while the high level at O resets binary counter (C3 to zero. . b) To begin with, the inputs of N4 are logic low, so that its output is ‘l’ and this causes transistor T3 to conduct via D3 and R11: lamp La then lights. At the sang time, T1 is switched on via R9 and short—circuits R2 and R3 which holds the S input logic high. This means that when a door is opened, nothing happens!  c) As long as counter IC3 is set to zero, its outputs O and Q7 are logic low, which makes the output of N3 high. As diode D2 is reverse biased, capacitor C6 charges via R5. After about 1 minute (determined by the values of C6 and R5) the trigger level of N4 has been reached, the output of the gate goes low, and La extinguishes. At the same time, C5 charges via R9 so that after six seconds T1 is cut off. The alarm is then set.


Alarm stage

When the alarm is set, and a door—switch is opened, the driver stages, as you have already ascertained, cause a high logic level at pin 11 of IC1 and a low logic level at pin 10. The high level clears the clock generator formed by N5 and N6: the clock pulses are applied to the CLOCK input of IC3. The low level at the CLR (clear) input of the counter releases the handbrake so to speak: IC3 now starts counting the clock pulses. Since outputs O3 and O4 of IC3 are taken through an OR circuit (diodes D7, D8, and resistor R12), the parallel-connected NAND gates N7 and N8 are cleared for a total of four periods after the first four clock pulses: during each of these periods twelve clock pulses are applied to T3. The horn therefore gives twelves short sounds fol- lowed by a pause, then twelve short sounds again, and so on until sixty—four pulses have passed. After the sixty—fourth pulse, both inputs of N3 go high (from O7, O1). The inverted output level of N3 causes the partial discharge of C6 and the reset of flip-flop N1/N2: the counter and clock are then inhibited again. At the same time, N4 causes the base of T1 to go logic high for a brief moment: this allows C5 to discharge. After that, it takes six seconds again for the alarm to become ’live afresh.


Installation  

Well, the most difficult part is now behind you: the alarm unit is ready for installation. The best place to fit the alarm is under or behind the instrument panel. Connections of the mating sockets for PLT and PL5 should not present too much of a difficulty, but remember that PLl must be permanently connected to the positive battery line, irrespective of the ignition switch! The positive line is identified in most cars by the code number 30, while earth (chassis = battery negative line) is coded 31. Control lamp La should be fitted in good view of the driver: its terminals should be connected to a socket mating with PL3 and to earth.

The horn relay should be fitted in the engine compartment: the pin—out of a typical horn relay is shown in figure 65. Remember what we said about the location of the horn at the beginning of this chapter: make sure it is not within easy reach of a prospective thief. If it is, a second horn may be the answer, and this should then, of course, be located in a secure position. The door switches in most cars (normally only fitted to the front doos) close when the door is opened and so connect the interior lights to chassis (see lLa in figure 63). lf the socket mating with PL2 is connected to the take—off point of this switch con- tact, the alarm is operational. However, as remarked before, a// doors (if not already factory—fitted), bonnet, and boot lid should be provided with a switch. Microswitches or reed switches which you may already have in stock are perfectly suitable.

As a matter of fact, they are probably better than switches fitted by the car manufacturer: those are invariably of a cheap, ,unprotected type which rusts easily. Obviously, such switches are not very reliable. lt’s therefore better to spend a little more and get g0od·quality switches on which you can depend for reliable operation of your alarm! The real problem is bound to be the location of the alarm switch: thieves seem to have second sight when it comes to spotting non-standard knobs and switches in cars they are interested in. Here you’|l have to use your imagination: on the one hand you dont want to do acrobatics to turn the alarm on, and on the other the switch should be in easy reach known only to yourself. We cannot give you any hints on this, if only because car thieves also read hobby books and will be very grateful for our tips! The terminals of all switches, as well as soldering joints, should be given a good layer of spray—on protective lacquer: this will prevent rattles and corrosion, while connecetions will remain easily undone or unsoldered.
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Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Automatic Car Alarm

Even the best car alarm is useless if you forget to set it upon leaving your car, whence this circuit. The relay has a make and a break contact: the  former is necessary to delay the switching in of the  alarm after you have got out of your car, and the  latter serves to switch on the car alarm proper. Immediately on re-entering your car, you must press the hidden switch, Si. This causes silicon-controlled rectifier Thi to conduct so that the relay is energized. At the same time, the green LED lights to indicate that the alarm is switched off.  

Circuit diagram :
Best Automatic Car Alarm-Circuit Daigram
 Best Automatic Car Alarm Circuit Diagram

As soon as the ignition is switched off, T, is off, T2  is on, and the buzzer sounds. At the same time,  monostable IC1 is triggered, which causes T3 to  conduct and the red LED to light. The silicon- controlled rectifier is then off, and D4 is reverse  biased, but the relay remains energized via its make  contact for a short time, preset by Pi As soon as this  time has lapsed, the relay returns to its quiescent  state, and the alarm is set via the break contact. The  delay time can be set to a maximum of about 1 minute.
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Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Alarm Circuit for 5 Zone Alarm system

5 Zone Alarm Circuit
My advice is to print off a copy of the schematic then to systematically list all components of one type. Start with resistors, write down their values from the schematic and place a pencil mark against the component on the schematic. Repeat until all components have been ticked. So reading from the schematic:








There are 6 100k resistors, R1, R3, R5, R7, R9, R14.
6 1k resistors, R2, R4, R6, R8, R10, R12.
1 220k resistor R11
1 10k resistor R13. All resistors will be 1/4 watt at 5 or 10& tolerance.
5 100n capacitors, C1 to C5. These may be polyester or disc ceramic, 50V working or higher.
C6 1 100uF capacitor. This should be electrolytic have a working voltage of at least 25Volts or higher.
C7 1 1uF capacitor. Electrolytic as for C6.
3 1N4148 Diodes, D1, D2, D3 which should be readily obtainable.
1 1N4001 diode D4.
5 LEDs LED1 - LED5. Colour is not important but you may like to use the same colour for zones 2 to 5 and a different colour for zone 1, the entry, exit delay.
1 2N3904 transistor, Q1.
1 4050B CMOS IC for IC1. Note that CMOS 4050BE may also be used.
1 4072B CMOS, IC2
1 4082B CMOS IC, IC3. Note that unused inputs on ICs 2 and 3 should be connected to earth and that the power pins must be connected.
1 Relay with 2 changeover contacts. The coil needs to match the circuit, i.e. 12V coil, the relay contacts must be suitable for the load. As the load is a piezo buzzer, there will be little load current, so a miniature or sub-miniature relay may be used.
1 keyswitch
1 NO PBS (for the panic switch).
1 reed relay ( for the re-entry switch).
5 NC contact switches. These can be bought from alarm shops and fitted to doors or windows etc.

That completes the full list of components for this circuit. It is an easy matter, and can be applied to any circuit. With experience you just look at the circuit and order all the components required.

Where can I get a parts list for a particular circuit?
Answer: From the schematic, read on to find out how.
If a circuit contains less than 20 components, you dont need a separate parts list, you can obtain them straight from the schematic. If the circuit is larger than this, something may be missed, so it is handy if a parts list is available.

Prerequisites:
Before you start to write down the components, there are certain things you must know about each component. This applies to all schematics, not just the circuits on this site. This additional information is listed below :

Resistors:
Unless stated, any resistor in a circuit will be rated at 1/4 watt. This is a standard wattage and all manufacturers supply 1/4 or 1/3 watt resistors. Higher wattage resistors may be used, but are more expensive than the 1/4 watt type. Although seldom stated a resistor does have a maximum voltage rating of 1000 Volts (not by ohms law) but due to the material it is made from. If the circuit is a high voltage circuit, then special high voltage resistors must be used.
Tolerance Unless stated assume all resistors in a circuit have10% tolerance. Buying 1/3w or 1/4w resistors at 5 or 10% in bulk may save money if you are a serious hobbyist.


Capacitors:
There are many different types of capacitors, electrolytics, polyester, silver mica, tantalum bead etc. Some have different characteristics and offer advantages in particular circuits.
Working Voltage The working voltage of a capacitor MUST exceed the working voltage of a circuit. This is of greatest importance with large value electrolytics, where excess voltage may cause the chemicals in the capacitor to overheat or explode. For any given power supply I would recommend that the voltage of the capacitor be at least 3 times higher than the nominal voltage of the power supply.
Tolerance Capacitors vary widely in tolerance, electrolytics may be +/- 20% of their rated capacitance, whereas ceramic plate capacitors can be made to within 5% of their nominal value.
Capacitors in Circuits:
Unless stated on a schematic, I would recommend the using capacitors as follows:
Ceramic Disc: Decoupling logic circuits, or radio circuits
Ceramic Plate: Timing circuits or other close tolerance circuits
Electrolytic: Use in power supplies and audio circuits, or where large capacitance values are required.
Polyester Film: Decoupling circuits, RF circuits
Tantalum: Low leakage circuits, timing circuits


Inductors and Transformers:
An Inductor in its simplest form is just a coil of wire (air-spaced), however it may be wound on a core that is either iron or ferrite to increase its inductance, or wound onto a former to make a transformer. There are also high frequency transformers known as IFTs these will have a particular resonant frequency and best suited to a radio design. Inductors for a radio circuit will always be specified on the schematic. Transformers for power supplies circuits will always be specified on a schematic with the correct choice of primary and secondary ratings.


Diodes and Transistors:
The recommended first choice of transistor or diode will be stated on the circuit. If the component cannot be obtained locally then a substitute part may be used, usually chosen from a catalog or substitute handbook. If choosing an alternative part make sure the ratings match those of the original circuit.


Switches and Relays:
Switches and relays, being mechanical in nature, can be unreliable components so if you want reliability dont buy the cheaper switches. Switch and relay contacts must have voltage and current ratings greater than the load they will switch, this will be stated on the diagram. If not stated then use a switch or relay with contacts that can handle the voltage and current of the circuit.
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Sunday, May 26, 2013

Simple door Alarm circuit

This is simple door alarm circuit.You can attach this circuit for your for your main door If somebody opens it alarm will activate.Sw1 is a Read switch.Those switches are operated with magnets.
Parts:

Q1 = BC547
Q2 = BC327
B1 = 3V Battery
R1 = 330K
R2 = 100R
C1 = 10nF-63V
C2 = 100uF-25V
SW1 = Read Switch



Note

# Dont supply more than 4.5V for this circuit

#Attach a magnet for the door frame near by the read switch
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